Cause reference table

SymptomCommon causeHow to checkWhat to do
Even flattening on the outside of the bendNo mandrel, or mandrel positioned wronglyMeasure diameter at the crown of the bend, compare with the straight sectionFit a mandrel; adjust the mandrel nose position
Flattening increases with bend angleMandrel nose set too far back from the tangent pointTrial bend at 30°, 60°, 90° and measure eachAdvance the mandrel towards the tangent point
Flattening only at the start of the bendInsufficient clamping, tube slippingMark the tube before bending and look for slip marksIncrease clamp force; check the clamp die surface
Flattening together with inner-wall wrinklingR/D beyond what this tooling set can doCalculate R/DIncrease the radius, or add a wiper die
Stainless flattens, carbon steel does notStainless springs back more and needs tighter conditionsTrial bend both materials at the same settingsSet separate parameters for stainless

Two ratios to know before you bend

R/D — centreline radius divided by outside diameter. The smaller this ratio, the tighter the bend and the more the outer material is stretched.

D/t — outside diameter divided by wall thickness. The larger this ratio, the thinner the wall relative to the diameter, and the less able it is to hold its own shape.

These two ratios decide the outcome before you touch the machine. A part with a small R/D and a large D/t cannot be bent cleanly on any machine without a mandrel — that is a material limit, not a machine limit.

The point most often misunderstood

Many workshops blame the machine when a tube flattens, while the problem sits in the tooling and the mandrel.

A four-axis CNC without a mandrel still flattens thin-wall tube; an NC machine with a correctly positioned mandrel produces a good part. A mandrel is not an upgrade — for a part that needs one, it is the condition for that part existing.

The second frequent error is mandrel position. The nose must sit close to the tangent point: too far back and it supports nothing; too far forward and the tube scores or jams. This is set by trial, not by formula.

Before concluding the machine cannot do it

Work through this order, changing one thing at a time:

  1. Confirm a mandrel is fitted, and that its size matches the tube's inside diameter
  2. Adjust the mandrel nose position, trial bend at 90°, measure the diameter at the crown
  3. Increase clamp force and check the tube for slip marks
  4. If it still flattens, recalculate R/D — the part may need a larger radius or a thicker wall

Send us the part drawing. For tube bending a drawing says more than any description — and we will tell you plainly whether your part needs a mandrel, including when the answer means changing the design.